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The 2011 edition of the National Electrical Code requires installation of AFCIs in new construction to protect against electrical fires on all electrical circuits that serve living areas of the home. Living areas are defined as everything other than kitchens, bathrooms, garages, laundry rooms and house exteriors. These “non-living” areas must have ground fault circuit interrupters to protect against electrocution but as of 2013 were not required by the NEC to also have AFCI protection against electrical fires.

Arc faults in residential electrical wiring permit electricity to jump through the air via an electric arc to an unintended path. An arc fault can heat electric wiring to extreme temperatures that can melt conductors and ignite anything combustible nearby. Arc faults can occur from loose connections, damaged insulation, crossed wires, or pinched or overheated wires. An arc-fault circuit interrupter or AFCI is required on certain circuits to protect against electrical fires by cutting power when arc faults occur.

A conventional circuit breaker isn’t sensitive enough to detect electricity arcing through the air while the arc is still too small to ignite a fire. An AFCI is a tiny electronic computer programmed by the manufacturer to look for the patterns of current spikes and voltage drops that distinguish harmless ordinary arcing, such as from an electric motor or light switch, from dangerous arcing that requires an immediate power cutoff.

Inspectors will write up as deficient a home that does not have Arc fault protection present but may also note if it was not required when the home was built.

Flu season is especially severe this season, and the risk of you or your family contracting the flu can increase exponentially if you’re selling your home.

The flu virus is contagious a full day before symptoms appear. Well-meaning, prospective home buyers can unwittingly spread germs when they cough, sneeze or talk and by touching objects and surfaces in your home.

So how can a motivated seller keep their home from turning into a petri dish for the flu?

Here are six tips to help keep your home germ-free as best as possible.

1. Offer tissues and hand sanitizer to your visitors

Infectious flu viruses can survive on tissues for up to 15 minutes and for shorter periods on hands. Make tissues and hand sanitizer available to your guests in every room, along with a small waste basket where they can immediately dispose of tissues and hand wipes.

2. Disinfect frequently

Clean kitchen and bathroom surfaces at least twice a week. After guests leave, wipe down surfaces they may have touched. Viruses can live for up to 48 hours on surfaces and objects like light switches, tables, doorknobs and handrails.

3. Leave shoes at the door or provide disposable shoe “booties” 

Researchers have found that 440,000 units of bacteria can attach themselves to a pair of shoes within a two-week period, and bacteria is able to thrive better on shoes than on toilets. Further, bacteria from the shoes transferred to the tile floors in a house more than 90 percent of the time—and the numbers were even higher in homes with carpeted floors.

Post a gentle request at the door, and make paper booties available. If you’re home when potential buyers arrive, lead by example. Greet them without shoes and encourage them to take off their shoes by providing a rubber “mud mat” or shoe bench.

4.   Proactive protection for the bathroom 

Hide your family’s toothbrushes in drawers, and stock bathrooms with disposable hand towels.

5. Get fresh air throughout

Air out your home a few minutes a day to let stagnant air out and fresh air in. It may be cold outside, but cracking a window can help keep the air in your home fresh and moving.

6. Skip the refreshments

While baking goodies may make your home smell wonderful, serving food and drink to guests can increase germ exposure for everyone.

While some of these measures may seem extreme, would-be home buyers/agents and home inspectors will appreciate your steadfastness in keeping them—and you—safe from germs. Greatly appreciated by all!

 

Having an extension cord in your house can be quite handy. If you need something plugged in and the cord doesn’t reach the outlet, an extension cord is the answer. But some people take advantage of this tool. They plug too many things into it at once, and this is becoming an ongoing problem and a common hazard. All it takes is this one extension cord mistake and things can go wrong really fast.

There are many outlets on an extension cord, but that doesn’t mean that you should be utilizing all of them. Think about it; if you have six outlets on an extension cord, and you use all of them, all that electricity is going into the main outlet it is plugged into. You run the risk of blowing a fuse if the circuit breaker trips. Not only that, but you also run the risk of starting a potential fire.

With the winter season finally here, fire departments across America are issuing a warning about this one extension cord mistake and the hidden dangers behind it.

There is a common mistake when comparing extension cords and power strips to surge protectors. Many people don’t realize that they’re not the same as a surge protector. If a surge protector gets overloaded, it will automatically cut off the power. With a power strip or extension cord, it won’t cut the power, which is why the circuit trips or the fuse blows.

When people buy a power strip, they think that because there are a lot of sockets, it can take anything you plug in. There is a limit to how much it can take. Each device that you plug into it uses a different amount of electricity, so if you plug the wrong thing into it, it can be very costly. It can even cost you your life.

Winter days can get very cold, so the first thing people will do is crank up the heat. But if you do not own a fireplace or have central heating, the next best thing is a space heater. If you’re in a small room, a space heater will warm up the room in very little time. A space heater also heats up another thing, the extension cord. The one extension cord mistake that people make with a space heater is plugging it into a power strip. Power strips are unable to handle the flow needed for a space heater, it can overheat.

People should never plug any other devices into the same outlet as a space heater. But avoiding this mistake will not only save your home, but also everyone else inside it. If it can overheat on its own, what do you think will happen if there are other devices generating flow?

The National Safety Fire Administration mentioned that about half of heating fires occur in December, January and February. According to them, from 2009 to 2013, heating equipment accounted for 56,000 of the home fires. One helpful tip would be to ensure that all your smoke alarms are up to code. Also, if you’re using a space heater, make sure that the cord is not damaged.

A good home security tip that you may have never thought about…. Most contractors install the door hardware plates with the supplied screws (which are only a half inch long and come out with one kick by a burglar). By installing 4 inch screws in their place that go through the door frame and into the framing of the house, an intruder would have to kick for a long time before they get tired and make a lot of noise. Shorter screws are supplied with the door hardware. The extra noise and energy spent trying to gain entry will not only give you time to arm yourself but the intruder will hopefully move on to an easier target.

Your garage vehicle door may be the largest moving object in your home and could weigh up to 400 pounds. For your safety make sure it’s in good condition.
Overhead garage doors have gravity to deal with. In the absence of some type of balancing mechanism, the door would slam shut as soon as you let go of it. Older garage doors may employ a weight and pulley system to balance the weight of the door however virtually all modern systems use springs. Regardless of the method used, the door should balance. If you open the garage door about half way and let go, it should balance there.
Spring failure
The springs used to balance the weight of the door are under enormous stress. If a spring were to break, flying pieces of metal could cause serious injury. Modern spring systems incorporate safety features to prevent flying metal in the event of a spring failure. For example, extension springs should have a cable running down the middle of the spring to contain the spring upon failure.
Automatic opener
Automatic door openers are not a replacement for a properly balanced door. The opener is not powerful enough to lift the entire weight of the door. The opener works with the help of the springs or counter balance system. An automatic garage door opener should stop and reverse on meeting an obstruction. Many systems manufactured prior to 1982 may stop but not reverse. These older systems should be upgraded. This is not only about protecting your car, it’s about protecting people. Today, some form of external entrapment protection is required. An electric eye is the most common system used. The electric eye is mounted 5 to 6 inches off the floor and senses objects in its path. If your garage door opener does not have an electric eye system, you may be able to upgrade it without replacing the entire system.
Emergency release
During a power failure the garage door may be impossible to open. Since 1982, automatic garage door openers have an emergency release to disengage the garage door from the opener. Once disengaged, you can open the door by hand. Make sure you know where this is and how to operate it. It is usually a short rope hanging from the unit. Pulling the rope disengages the door from the automatic door opening mechanism.
A Few More Pointers on Garage Doors
• Keep it in good shape: Your garage door may require periodic lubrication and adjustment. An overhead garage door that is poorly maintained may pose a threat to your safety. Hiring a garage door expert to inspect and adjust the system is a good idea.
• Pinch hazard: Sectional overhead garage doors pose a pinch hazard to fingers. Never put your fingers in the space between door sections to close the door, use the provided handles. Some modern sectional garage doors have a ‘pinch proof’ design.
• Security: The remote control for your automatic opener is like a key to your garage. When you move into a home, you should change the remote control settings just as you would change the locks on your doors. If the codes for your automatic opener cannot be changed, it probably also lacks other key safety features of a more modern system. You should consider upgrading.
• Educate children: Kids need to know that garage doors are dangerous. Bikes and toys should never be left in the path of the garage door while the door is open. Make sure they know that they should not play with the remote control. Mount the door activation button five feet from the ground, out of reach.

The biggest deterrent to completion of a full inspection is lack of utilities or access to all components.  It is the responsibility of the owner of the property to make certain that all utilities, valves and breakers are turned on and pilot lights lit. Full access should also be made readily available to breaker boxes/sub-panels, water heater closets and attics. Any garage attics and closets/panels need to have parked cars, boats, RV’s, storage, gyms, etc. moved. The water heater needs to have time to heat up to the working temperature in order to be properly inspected.  Failure to follow up on any one of these steps may lead to an incomplete inspection and/or cost incurred for a re-inspect to be paid by the seller or listing agent.  This fee is to be paid at the time of the returning visit, not billed to closing.  CBS codes should be provided in a timely manner to all parties performing inspections to gain access to the property.

 

 

Product equipment and appliance safety recalls are not part of a normal inspection.  More specific recall information can be obtained at www.cpsc.gov/index.html .

Brrr!  Cold weather is here to stay for a few days! That’s when you are more prone to having freezing pipes. Here is a great article to further expand on freeze protection from the Institute for Business and Home Safety. IBHS is a national nonprofit initiative of the insurance industry to reduce deaths, injuries, property damage, economic losses and human suffering caused by natural disasters.

“Homeowners in the South need to be alert to the danger of freezing and bursting water pipes when the outdoor temperature threatens to drop to 20° F. That’s the temperature at which ice is likely to start forming in water pipes located in an unheated portion of a house. Once ice forms into a blockage in a pipe, continued growth of ice in the pipe can lead to excessive water pressure. It’s pressure of the water that has no place to go when ice builds that causes the pipe to burst, rather than ice pushing against the wall of a pipe. Although 20°F is well below the freezing temperature of water, two factors make this the critical outdoor temperature:

1. The temperature of an unheated portion of a house is almost always at least a few degrees above the outdoor temperature. For example, an insulated attic may be at 37 or 38° F when the outdoor temperature is 32° F.

2. Water “supercools” several degrees below freezing before any ice begins to form. In research tests at the University of Illinois, water pipes placed in an unheated, insulated attic consistently started forming ice when the outdoor temperature dipped just below 20°F.

The 20° F threshold is primarily for homes in the South and other areas where freezing may occur only a handful of times each season. There are several precautions homeowners in the South can take when the temperature is expected to dip into the low 20s:

Seal all openings where cold air can get at unprotected water pipes. It’s especially important to keep cold wind away from pipes, which speeds up the freezing process.

Leave cabinet doors open under the kitchen and bathroom sinks to allow warmer room air to circulate around pipes.

Let faucets drip slowly to keep water flowing through pipes that are vulnerable to freezing. Ice might still form in the pipes, but an open faucet allows water to escape before the pressure builds to where a pipe can burst. If the dripping stops, it may mean that ice is blocking the pipe; keep the faucet open, since the pipe still needs pressure relief.

Pipes in attics and crawl spaces should be protected with insulation or heat. Pipe insulation is available in fiberglass or foam sleeves. Home centers and hardware stores have sleeves providing 1/8 to 5/8 inches of insulation; specialty dealers have products that provide up to 2 inches of insulation. The extra thickness is worth the price and can save a pipe that would freeze with less insulation.

Heating cables and tapes are effective in freeze protection. Select a heating cable with the UL label and a built-in thermostat that turns the heat on when needed (without a thermostat, the cable has to be plugged in each time and might be forgotten). Follow the manufacturer’s instructions closely.

Exterior pipes should be drained or enclosed in 2″ fiberglass insulation sleeves.

Pipes leading to the exterior should be shut off and drained at the start of the winter. If these exterior faucets do not have a shut-off valve inside the house, have one installed by a plumber.”

How often do you think about the maintenance needed to keep your home and appliances running and in good shape? If you are like most busy homeowners, myself included, probably not often enough.  Here are a few tips to keep things running smoothly and keep on top of maintenance chores.

Roof:  Clean all debris out of the gutters .  Check for missing or damaged shingles.  Cut all tree limbs away or back from the roof to prevent damage.

Structure:   Check to make sure there are no areas around the foundation that are holding or “ponding” water. Make sure downspouts extend out of flowerbeds and away from the foundation.  Are there any exterior cracks or siding damage that need attention?

Air Conditioning System maintenance: To ensure the most efficient operation, check filters monthly.   Remove debris from overflow pans and around outside condensers.

Heating System maintenance: Visually inspect the exhaust vents for rust, damage or deterioration. 

Electrical System maintenance: To prevent over-loading your circuits, make sure there are not too many appliances plugged into one circuit. To help avoid electrical fires, limit use of extension cords.

Smoke Detectors:  Check and test quarterly.  Replace all batteries and backup batteries yearly.

Fireplaces:   Have the flu and inserts cleaned to prevent creosote build-up if used often.  Make sure the chimney cap is secured w/o holes.

Plumbing System maintenance: Check for leaks under cabinets and “running” toilets. Toilet paper should be the only paper product flushed down a toilet but some septic sytems may need more maintenance and pumping.  Clean out all faucet aerators.  Address any sluggish drains and clean out clogs.

Washer maintenance: Make sure your machine is level to prevent uneven wearing of parts. To adjust, turn the legs clockwise to lower them or counter-clockwise to raise them. 

Dryer maintenance: Clean the lint screen after each load to prevent buildup. Clean out the inside dryer vents and outside dryer caps. 

Water Heater maintenance: Drain and flush sediment from the tank twice a year.

Range/Oven maintenance: If you have a self-clean oven, run it twice yearly or more frequently if needed.  Make sure all seals are in good repair and all elements are working.

Refrigerator maintenance: Wipe down the interior shelves, and shell every three months.  Check gaskets for cold air loss.

Garbage Disposal maintenance: To clean, run a full tray of ice cubes through it with cold water.  You can also add lemon/lime slices or baking soda to help with any odors.

These are just a few suggestions offered for your home systems and appliances.  If you do not feel comfortable in safely and properly attempting any of the above mentioned, just call a qualified professional.   Proper maintenance goes a long way in extending the life of your systems and preventing major expenses down the road.

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