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Bathrooms need exhaust fans to help eliminate moisture problems.  When people take showers and baths, moisture gets pumped in to the air, which can cause mold, mildew, dampness and humidity.
If you live in a house without an exhaust fan in a bathroom that gets used for showers or baths often, install one.

If you’re going to install a fan, here are a few tips to make sure your fan works properly for your home.

• Choose a quality fan. You’ll want to balance noise level, performance, and price and there are many fans to choose from.  If you buy a cheap noisy fan, you probably won’t even want to turn it on.
• Make the exhaust duct short. A proper exhaust duct will need be as short as possible and take as few turns as possible.  The longer the duct and the more twists and turns it takes, the less air flow. 
• Don’t use a standard switch to control the fan. When a single switch controls the fan, people turn the fan on while in the shower or maybe after the shower, and turn the fan off when leaving the room.  The problem is that the fan doesn’t run long enough to remove enough moisture. Installing a timer that runs for at least a half hour, or installing a humidity sensing fan would be a better solution.

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs)

One of the most common items/defects on our inspection reports are GFCI protection or lack of. We will try and cover the basics of GFCI devices, how to test them, and what some of the newer features are.

The two most common types of GFCI devices are circuit breakers and outlets. A GFCI circuit breaker gets installed at the electric panel, and protects the entire circuit. This is a handy way to make sure everything on the circuit gets protected, and there is no need for individual GFCI outlets anywhere in the circuit. The other type, which everyone has already seen, is an outlet. The most common type of outlet is a duplex receptacle, which is shown below left.

One GFCI outlet can protect several other non-GFCI outlets when wired properly. Every GFCI outlet has screws behind the outlet labeled “line” and “load”. The current coming in to the outlet must always be connected to the “line” side of the outlet. If more outlets are going to be protected by the GFCI, they can be wired to the “load” side of the outlet. Many houses built in the eighties will have the exterior outlets, garage outlets, and bathroom outlets wired downstream from a GFCI outlet in the upper level bathroom. Today it’s common for a GFCI outlet at the kitchen countertop to protect several other outlets. This saves money.

A redundant way to wire GFCI outlets is to wire one GFCI downstream from a second GFCI outlet. This is wasteful, pointless, annoying, and it makes things difficult for the home inspector and anyone else that might trip the outlet, especially if the first GFCI outlet is hidden! Please don’t do this.

GFCI outlets should be tested every month because they can go bad, and a defective GFCI outlet doesn’t provide any life safety protection. To test a GFCI outlet or circuit breaker, simply press the test button. Here are the possible outcomes you can have by testing a GFCI outlet with the test button:

• Acceptable – The reset button pops and the power goes off. The GFCI device is functioning properly. Simply press the reset button to restore power.
• Unacceptable – The reset button doesn’t pop. This means the outlet is defective and should be replaced.
• Unacceptable – The reset button pops but the power doesn’t go off. This means the line and load are reversed at the outlet. This should be corrected. Newer “SmartLock” GFCI outlets that have a little lock symbol on the front have a built-in safety feature that prevents the outlet from getting energized if it’s incorrectly wired.
• Unacceptable – The reset button is already popped, the power is off, and the reset button won’t go in. This can happen on the newer “Smartlock” GFCI outlets if they’re improperly wired or the outlet has gone bad.
• Acceptable, but annoying – The outlet loses power when tested, but the reset button doesn’t move. This means someone wired the GFCI outlet downstream from a second GFCI outlet.

Another way to test GFCI outlets is to buy a tester. This is a great way to test standard outlets that are wired downstream from a GFCI device. Just plug it in to an outlet and press the test button. If the power goes out, the GFCI device is working properly. If the power stays on, it doesn’t mean the GFCI device is defective – sometimes GFCI testers won’t trip GFCI outlets. If this is the case, try the test button at the outlet.

What can be done to control moisture in my home and prevent mold from growing?

The following excerpt was taken from the American Lung Association and the U.S. consumer Product Safety Commisions publication Biological Pollutants In Your Home:

Fix leaks and seepage immediately. * If water is entering your house from the outside, your options range from simple landscaping to extensive excavation and waterproofing. Make sure that the ground slopes away from the house. * Water in the basement can result from the lack of gutters or a water flow toward the house. * Water leaks in pipes or around tubs and sinks can provide a place for biological pollutants to grow. * Put a plastic cover over dirt in crawlspaces to prevent moisture from coming in from the ground. Be sure crawlspaces are well ventilated. * Use exhaust fans in bathrooms and kitchens to remove moisture to the outside (not into the attic). Vent your clothes dryer to the outside. * Turn off appliances such as humidifiers or kerosene heaters if you notice moisture on windows and other surfaces. * Use dehumidifiers and air conditioners, especially in hot, humid climates, to reduce moisture in the air. Be sure that the appliances themselves are not sources of biological pollutants. * Raise the temperature of cold surfaces where moisture condenses. Use insulation or storm windows. Keep in mind that a storm window installed on the inside is more effective than one installed on the outside. * Open doors between rooms, especially doors to closets which may be colder than the rooms. This increases circulation which carries heat to the cold surfaces. Further increase circulation by using fans and by moving furniture away wall and corners. * Be sure that your house has a source of fresh air and can expel excessive moisture from the home. * Pay special attention to carpet on concrete floors. Carpet can absorb moisture and become a breeding ground for biological pollutants. Use area rugs–check them frequently and wash them often. In certain climates, if carpet is to be installed over a concrete floor, it may be necessary to use a vapor barrier (plastic sheeting) over the concrete and cover that with sub-flooring (insulation covered with plywood) to prevent a moisture problem. Moisture problems and their solutions differ from one climate to another. The Northeast is cold and wet while the Southwest is hot and dry. The South is hot and wet, and the Western Mountain states are cold and dry. All of these regions can have moisture problems. For example, evaporative coolers used in the Southwest can encourage the growth of biological pollutants. In other hot regions, the use of air conditioners which cool the air too quickly may prevent the air conditioners from running long enough to remove excess moisture from the air. The types of construction and weatherization for the different climates can lead to different problems and solutions.

Excess humidity inside your home for a prolonged period of time can damage walls, especially when outdoor air temperatures are very cold. Your humidistat is set too high if excessive moisture collects on windows and other cold surfaces. Other sources of excess moisture besides overuse of a humidifier may be long showers, running hot water for long periods of time, boiling or steaming foods, certain plants, and drying clothes indoors. A tight, energy efficient house holds more moisture so you may need to run a kitchen or bath ventilating fan at times or open a window briefly. Storm windows and caulking around windows keep the interior glass warmer and reduce condensation of moisture there. Humidifiers are not recommended for use in buildings without proper vapor barriers because of potential damage from moisture buildup. Consult a building contractor or an inspector to determine the adequacy of the vapor barrier in your house. Use a humidity indicator to measure and monitor the relative humidity in your house.

Anne Field, Extension Specialist, Emeritus, with reference from the Association for Home Appliance Manufacturers (www.aham.org/).

• After move-in, there are several items of safety that should be addressed.
• Walk through and around your home, including sidewalks and driveways for any tripping hazards.
• First of all, have all exterior door locks changed and pin numbers of alarm systems if applicable.
• Fire safety is the most preventable with installing working smoke detectors that are tested monthly.
• Carbon monoxide monitors/detectors should be installed in the home.
• GFCI outlets should be installed in appropriate locations where exposed to water can prevent accidental electrocution. (Refer to your inspection report for specifics).
• All swimming pools should have fence enclosures that can be latched/locked to prevent unauthorized use. There are many safety devices designed for pools to alert presence in the water.
• Make sure all electrical wiring is in good condition, all updates and changes done by a professional licensed electrician.
• All dryer vents should be metal and not vinyl to prevent fire hazards and duct work kept free of debris.
• Stair and balcony railings should have the proper spacing of less than 4” to prevent accidents.
• Keep all walk-in attics locked.
• Install flue caps on chimneys to prevent unwanted infestations and water penetration.
• For further safety information, go to http://www.cpsc.gov/sitemap.html.

There are a few things you can do that help keep your house in good repair:

• Watering evenly around the foundation to minimize movement.
• Keep all tree limbs cut back at least 4′ from the roof.
• Increase attic ventilation to promote roof longevity and lower monthly bills.
• Gutters with extended downspouts that move water away from the foundation can help prevent excessive foundation movement. Keep gutters free of debris.
• Consult a drainage specialist when changing, adding or improving landscaping on your lot.
• Flush the water heater tank twice yearly to prevent sediment buildup and increase the life of the tank.
• Flush the HVAC condensate drain line with a cup of bleach every six months.
• Make sure the HVAC compressor is level and free from shrubs, vines and debris.
• The HVAC filters should be changed regularly, depending on filter type.
• Install backflow preventers on all exterior faucets.
• Install smoke detectors in all bedrooms and living areas. A carbon monoxide detector should also be installed per floor or HVAC zone.
• Have the fireplace and flu cleaned after every 2 cords of wood burned to prevent buildup.
• Periodically check plumbing for leaks and drips.
• Have routine WDI inspections to keep your home free of insect infestation.