Do you know how old your smoke detector is? Remembering when you last tested yours is hard enough, so it’s easy to lose track of its age. Unfortunately, smoke and CO detectors don’t last forever – after about ten years they start to wear out and become less effective. In fact, about 30 percent of detectors that are ten years old don’t work at all!

When it is time to do a smoke detector annual check-up (choose an annual date that is easy to remember), check on the age as well.

To check the date, just unscrew the front plate and take a look at the back of it. There should be a manufactured date printed or stamped in this area (sometimes it’s near the battery compartment, instead). If your detector was made more than ten years ago, it’s time to buy a new one.

If it is fairly new (within the last 5 years), then test the battery back-up. There are number of batteries specifically designed for smoke and CO detectors. If you need to replace your detector, grab one of these long-lasting lithium batteries at the same time.

With the recent blast of Arctic air pushing its sub-zero temperatures here into the South,  did you find unwanted drafts in your home?  Have your heating or cooling bills been excessively high this year? Has your home felt drafty in the winter or can’t seem to stay cool in the summer? You could be losing air in unexpected locations of your home, and losing air means losing money.

The US Department of Energy estimates that Americans’ energy bill sare 5-30% higher than they need to be thanks to air leaks that could easily be remedied with proper insulation techniques.  Here are some common problem areas:

• Windows are the most common places for drafts. Move your hand over the window frames of your house — can you feel a soft breeze? Heavy curtains will often contain the draft. Older houses may require caulking or weather stripping. In extreme cases, consider purchasing energy-efficient windows
• The front and back doors of your home may be drafty, too. Heat can escape from the opening at the bottom of your doors or through the door frames. Installing a door sweep to the bottom of the door can keep drafts out. You can also replace your screen door with a storm door, which will better prevent drafts from entering your home
• Chimneys are drafty by definition. Pay close attention to the air flow near your fireplace. Cover the opening securely when the fireplace is not in use
• Attics, basements and eaves are where the most heat is lost. Examine the insulation there and determine whether it was installed properly
• Electrical outlets and lighting fixtures can also be problematic. Visit your local hardware store to purchase draft-proofing gaskets
• You can also find drafts by walking around the inside of your home with a lit candle. If the flame flickers or goes out, you’ll know there’s a draft nearby

Great recent article from Angies List:

When you pay a professional like a home inspector for their services, you expect to have all your questions answered, right? After all, you, the customer, are paying good money for their expertise. While it may seem contrary to the nature of a business relationship, there are some questions that a home inspector typically won’t answer.

Below you’ll find three common questions that we as home inspectors routinely decline to answer – and why.

1. Am I paying too much for this property?

A home inspector reports the condition of the property you are purchasing, but unless they have specialized education in their background, they do not have the training necessary to estimate the value of the property.

Advice on market value customarily comes from two sources: Realtors and appraisers. Realtors will work up a market analysis of virtually every property they list, which tells you the value of similar properties in the area. This in turn gives you an idea of what listing price is appropriate. Appraisers have years of focused training and many sources of information that help them to assess the value of a property. While your home inspector will likely be eager to help, this information is best acquired from the appropriate professionals.

2. Does this house have foundation issues?

Foundation issues manifest themselves in a variety of ways, from cracks in the slab and walls to doors that don’t shut properly. Most home inspectors have the skills to identify the symptoms, but diagnosing foundation failure is a serious matter that should be done by a structural engineer.

Keep in mind that cracks in the slab or brick can be present even in homes with no foundation problems. The tools and testing necessary to establish foundation failure are generally beyond the scope of the average home inspection company. If we home inspectors had to acquire the tools and lab services needed to provide this information ourselves, home inspections would be much more costly.

3. Would you buy this house?

The job of a home inspector is not to influence, but to inform. We try to give our clients the most accurate picture of the condition of the property on the day it was inspected, but the decision whether or not to go through with the purchase is the client’s alone. The question itself is highly subjective.

For example, people who have unknowingly purchased a home with a bad sewer line will be more apt to run screaming in the other direction if a house is found to have plumbing issues. If a plumber looks at the same house, he or she will likely see this as a minor concern, since they possess the skills and tools to fix the problem themselves. Your experience, talents and expectations will influence your decision differently than anyone else, making you the expert on whether the purchase makes sense.

2012 was an amazing year for us in home inspections. Thanks to all of you who made that happen and we look forward to a great 2013!  So far it is off to a great start!

Here are some tips to make your house a quick sell:

http://realtormag.realtor.org/home-and-design/architecture-coach/article/2012/08/25-quick-cheap-and-easy-home-sale-tips

Having attic access in an inspection is important, but not always feasible when a house is occupied:… http://fb.me/1CWjkkgbE

The following is an excerpt from Working RE magazine:

Editor’s Note: Inspecting an attic can be tricky business. Here is what a few inspectors have learned over the years about when and how to inspect an attic.

 Inspecting the Attic
By David Brauner, Editor

F. Kelly, inspecting for 12 years in Arizona, has a problem common to inspectors: “I declined to go into an attic the other day. The access was in the master bedroom closet, full of clothes, etc. When I attempted to open the scuttle cover, it was obvious there were about 15 inches of blown in insulation covering it. I was able to access another portion of the attic so I knew approximately how much insulation was up there,” said Kelly. “I wrote up that I didn’t access that portion of the attic due to excessive insulation on the hatch cover. I suppose I could spend half an hour or so covering their clothing and cleaning up but what do you do when the cover is heavily caulked in place and you will damage drywall removing it? I usually report that the seller needs to provide access but with these short sales, the inspection period is usually very short.”

If at all possible in preparation for the inspection, have all attic accesses prepared with clothing, storage, etc. removed.  This prevents any damage or distress to contents and insures that the inspector will be able to perform a complete and thorough inspection for the client and buyer of the property.

 

One of the easiest ways to reduce energy usage is to install a programmable thermostat. Since most homeowners spend approximately 50% of their annual energy bill on A/C and heating, a simple way to reduce this cost while maintaining a comfortable temperature is what you want to achieve.

A programmable thermostat will automatically adjust the indoor temperature to preset times, which according to Energy Star can save you an estimated $180/year or more. You can program it to adjust the temperature before you wake in the morning or return at the end of the day, so your home is comfortable when needed but not wasting energy when you’re not at home.

If you’re comfortable with wiring and electrical equipment you can install the thermostat yourself following these steps:

1. The thermostat should be installed on an interior wall away from sources of heat and drafts such as doorways, windows, skylights, and bright lights. Make sure to install in a location this is not near heating and cooling vents.
2. Carefully read the instructions and electrical safety guidelines before attempting the installation.
3. Turn off the power supply.
4. Remove the old thermostat and wall plate, but use caution because older models can contain mercury which is a toxic substance that should be appropriately recycled.
5. Label all wires and secure by tying in a loop.
6. Install the wall plate first, then connect the wires following the instructions in the manual.
7. Mount the programmable thermostat on the wall plate and turn back on the power.
8. Most models include pre-programmed settings to maximize energy efficiency, but you can make adjustments to suit your needs by following the guidelines in the manual.

If you’re inexperienced with the installation of electrical equipment, then it is best to contact an HVAC specialist who can install it properly so that all warranties remain valid.

Instead of our ususal inspection blog, we wanted to say a few things we are thankful for this Holiday Season!

Thanks to those men and women who bravely and selflessly stood and fought for our freedom. To those who that gave it their all, fully knowing the consequences and many suffering the sacrifices. We proudly stand, applaud and support
our soldiers, past and present. A grateful thank you to each and everyone. May we never presume our freedom but be always thankful.

 

We thank our families for all the support and encouragement they so frequently give – and the wonderful spirits in which they give it.

 

We are extremely thankful for our agents, clients and referrals, which without you our business would not be. 

 

Here’s wishing each and everyone a safe and Happy Thanksgiving!

 

New homes over the past decade have actually gotten thirstier, using even more water than the new homes of the prior generation. Considering the advancement in water-efficient household items like washing machines and showerheads, how can this be possible?

Surprisingly enough, the main culprit is the external irrigation systems used for landscaping.

“Builders can impact 30 percent of water usage, all inside the home”, said Robert Broad, director of purchasing for Pulte Homes. “Sixty percent to 70 percent of all home water usage is external. All these great plumbing features put in were being completely dwarfed by the demand for sprinkler systems.”

In the past, very few new homes came with sprinkler systems. Now, sprinkler systems are becoming commonplace in a new home package, just like appliances. The trouble is most people don’t use sprinklers properly and have a tendency to overwater, especially in times of prolonged dry periods.

WaterSmart homes like ones that Pulte Homes built in the desert communities combat this problem with landscape irrigation control units.  These units can be programmed for different types of shrubbery, soil and model of sprinkler. Text or email alerts can be programmed to notify users of plumbing malfunctions via a water usage monitor.

Internally, the plumbing network can be re-aligned in and around the homes using cross-linked polyethylene so that hot water is delivered quicker or also use of “tank-less” on-demand systems. A myriad of other water-efficient appliances, such as high-efficiency toilets, faucets, and showerheads can also be installed.

A water-smart home can use half as much water as a new home of the preceding years, including those that were built just the year before.

So what’s in our future for more water-conservation in the building industry?

National code developers are starting to move in the direction of greener measures for commercial and residential buildings; WaterSense programs have mandated standards for showerheads and faucets; more efficient appliances such as toilets have become mainstream; and the International Code Council is moving in a green direction.

Whether consumers are choosing traditional turf or desert landscaping actually has a greater impact than what builders are doing inside the house. Some states advise moving in a “brown” direction. Turf front yards are banned in many desert locales, with recommendations for landscaping with native plants/xeriscaping.

Have an older home?  Try monitoring your irrigation system usage and replacing water-guzzling appliances when possible.  Rain water collection systems are a great backup and can be very cost-effective. There are many articles and blogs on installing water conservation ideas for the DIY person.

If anything this drought in Texas has taught us this season, never take rainfall for granted!

We write about ARC-Fault protection (or the lack of) in about 98% of our inspection reports.  Here is a an excerpt from the latest NACHI newsletter to help you better understand its purpose and function.

Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupters

by Nick Gromicko, Rob London and Kenton Shepard

Arc-fault circuit interrupters (AFCIs) are special types of electrical receptacles or outlets and circuit breakers designed to detect and respond to potentially dangerous electrical arcs in home branch wiring.

How do they work?

AFCIs function by monitoring the electrical waveform and promptly opening (interrupting) the circuit they serve if they detect changes in the wave pattern that are characteristic of a dangerous arc. They also must be capable of distinguishing safe, normal arcs, such as those created when a switch is turned on or a plug is pulled from a receptacle, from arcs that can cause fires. An AFCI can detect, recognize, and respond to very small changes in wave pattern.

What is an arc?

When an electric current crosses an air gap from an energized component to a grounded component, it produces a glowing plasma discharge known as an arc. For example, a bolt of lightening is a very large, powerful arc that crosses an atmospheric gap from an electrically charged cloud to the ground or another cloud. Just as lightning can cause fires, arcs produced by domestic wiring are capable of producing high levels of heat that can ignite their surroundings and lead to structure fires.

According to statistics from the National Fire Protection Agency for the year 2005, electrical fires damaged approximately 20,900 homes, killed 500 people, and cost $862 million in property damage. Although short-circuits and overloads account for many of these fires, arcs are responsible for the majority and are undetectable by traditional (non-AFCI) circuit breakers.

Where are arcs likely to form?

Arcs can form where wires are improperly installed or when insulation becomes damaged. In older homes, wire insulation tends to crystallize as it ages, becoming brittle and prone to cracking and chipping. Damaged insulation exposes the current-carrying wire to its surroundings, increasing the chances that an arc may occur.

Situations in which arcs may be created:

• electrical cords damaged by vacuum cleaners or trapped beneath furniture or doors.
• damage to wire insulation from nails or screws driven through walls.
• appliance cords damaged by heat, natural aging, kinking, impact or over-extension.
• spillage of liquid.
• loose connections in outlets, switches and light fixtures.

Where are AFCIs required?

Locations in which AFCIs are required depend on the building codes adopted by their jurisdiction. Inspectors are responsible for knowing what building codes are used in the areas in which they inspect.

The 2006 International Residential Code (IRC) requires that AFCIs be installed within bedrooms in the following manner:

E3802.12 Arc-Fault Protection of Bedroom Outlets. All branch circuits that supply120-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-amp outlets installed in bedrooms shall be protected by a combination-type or branch/feeder-type arc-fault circuit interrupter installed to provide protection of the entire branch circuit.

Exception: The location of the arc-fault circuit interrupter shall be permitted to be at other than the origination of the branch circuit, provided that:

1. The arc-fault circuit interrupter is installed within 6 feet of the branch circuit overcurrent device as measured along the branch circuit conductors, and
2. The circuit conductors between the branch circuit overcurrent device and the arc-fault circuit interrupter are installed in a metal raceway or a cable with metallic sheath.

The National Electrical Code (NEC) offers the following guidelines concerning AFCI placement within bedrooms:

Dwelling Units. All 120-volt, single phase, 15- and 20-ampere branch circuits supplying outlets installed in dwelling unit in family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, sun rooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, or similar rooms or areas shall be protected by a listed arc-fault circuit interrupter, combination-type installed to provide protection of the branch circuit.

Home inspectors should refrain from quoting exact code in their reports. A plaintiff’s attorney might suggest that code quotation means that the inspector was performing a code inspection and is therefore responsible for identifying all code violations in the home. Some jurisdictions do not yet require their implementation in locations where they can be helpful.

What types of AFCIs are available?

The four most common types of AFCIs are as follows:

• Branch/feeder—installed at the main electrical panel or sub-panel.
• Outlet circuit—installed in a branch-circuit outlet.
• Combination—complies with the requirements of both the branch/feeder and the outlet circuit AFCIs.
• Cord—a plug-in device connected to the receptacle outlet.

Nuisance Tripping

An AFCI might activate in situations that are not dangerous and create needless power shortages. This can be particularly annoying when an AFCI stalls power to a freezer or refrigerator, allowing its contents to spoil. There are a few procedures an electrical contractor can perform in order to reduce potential “nuisance tripping,” such as:

• Check that the load power wire, panel neutral wire and load neutral wire are properly connected.
• Check wiring to ensure that there are no shared neutral connections.
• Check the junction box and fixture connections to ensure that the neutral conductor contacts a grounded conductor.

Arc Faults vs. Ground Faults

It is important to distinguish AFCI devices from Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) devices. GFCIs detect ground faults, which occur when current leaks from a hot (ungrounded) conductor to a grounded object as a result of a short-circuit. This situation can be hazardous when a person unintentionally becomes the current’s path to the ground. GFCIs function by constantly monitoring the current flow between hot and neutral (grounding) conductors, and activate when they sense a difference of 5 milliamps or more. Thus, GFCIs are intended to prevent personal injury due to electric shock, while AFCIs prevent personal injury and property damage due to structure fires.

In summary, AFCIs are designed to detect small arcs of electricity before they have a chance to lead to a structure fire.